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Checklist by Ed Baker
This is a simple "thing's to do" before and at the track quick reference.
1) Make sure your car is running at it's best before going to the track.
Admission, race gas and the chance of breakage will bring failure and a waste
of money. If not up to par, just shine it up, park in the pits and have
fun with your friends.
2) Common tools needed: (If you go with friends, it's a good idea to
see what each is bringing. No sense in having 5 floor jacks.)
screwdrivers regular and Philips
socket set regular and metric
wrenches regular and metric
pliers and wire cutters
allen wrench for fuel regulator.
lug wrench and jack
air supply
scantool
multimeter and test light.
3)
Spare parts. Common failures are turbo hoses, clamps, vacuum
hose, crank sensor and belt. There are other items but this is what I've given
away most of the time.
4)
Fuel seems to be the biggest problem. Many go to the track with a
half a tank of gas then add 2 gals of C16 as it's $7.00 a gallon, and crank
the boost up. It doesn't work this way. You are playing Russian
Roulette with your head gaskets. Try and arrive at the track with as little
gas as possible. Rig up a pump to drain the tank at the fuel rail or tank
neck. Empty into 1 or 2 gallon safety cans. Now determine what
octane you will be running. Don't forget that fuel is also heavy. Try
and run between a 1/4 and 1/2 a tank. Too low and you will get starvation and
too much you will be adding up to 50lbs.
5) If you are running alcohol, or propane injection, consider that race gas
makes more power then alcohol or propane. But, all mixed together and
you will have too many variables to figure out. Pick one and stay with
it. Some have reached lower 11's with an alcohol setup. It's
not race gas, but, it can be a lot cheaper over time.
6)
Fluids. Most tracks don't like antifreeze, so empty the
overflow tank. It's a good idea to race on a fresh oil change. This way it
will be easy to see a sudden change in oil quality from gas, water or loss.
It's best to run on straight water with an additive in case of a blown head
gasket. Less risk of bearing damage that way. Transmission fluid
should be filled to the S bend on the stick.
7)
Tires. Adjust your tire pressure cold. If one tire is in the
sun and the other shaded they can vary 10lbs in a few minutes. So cover
the sunny one with an old jacket or cover. Fill front tires to 45-50
lbs. They should be stable for the day. Your rear tires will need to be
checked after every run.
8)
Weight. Make sure you empty your whole car including spare and
jack as well. Don't forget the drivers floor mat. It can wedge under the gas
pedal and prevent full throttle.
9)
Safety. Make sure you have all your equipment for your ET. Helmets
are usually required for most tracks. Fire Jacket, 5 point harness and
rollbar once you hit the 11's.
10) Organized-Most tracks are busy, so 4 or 5 runs may be all you can
get. Don't waste your runs. Get your fuel pressure, tire pressure
and boost set as close as you can the first time out. Then fine tune as you
go.